Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Back in time... our travel throughout July. Fernando de Noronha (June 26-July 8)

We skipped ahead a bit to get in the news about Diego's first day of school.  Day two was just as successful and Diego gets off the bus each day with his little Diego smile.  Another good day.

Debbie took a placement exam (that Jim will take next week) for a night Portuguese at the local university, the PUC, located basically across the street from our apartment.  It has a small and beautiful campus, complete with swaths of rainforest.  Honestly, this city is just amazing.  

Back to travels.  On June 25, we traveled from Rio to Recife, mainly as a stopover for our real destination- Fernando de Noronha- an archipelago of 21 islands (only one is inhabited) about 545 km off the coast of Recife in the Atlantic Ocean. It is part of the state of Pernambuco.  In 2001, UNESCO deemed Fernando de Noronha a World Heritage site.


We flew from Recife to Noronha

When Jim first purchased the Lonely Planet guide to Brazil, one section talked about Noronha having among the top beaches in the world.  Our decision was made. That's where we would take vacation. Jim grew up on the beach in southern California so the waves are always calling him.  Debbie loves the ocean and, most of all, loves to watch Jim teach Diego how to master the surf,waves and power of the ocean.  He's been doing this for years and each year Diego becomes bolder with the water.  

We were fortunate to connect with the fabulously fun, responsive, multi-lingual, brilliant and energetic Adriana Schmidt Raub through her ecotourism agency, Your Way (http://www.yourway.com.br/).  We had many conversations via email and she helped us to find the most glorious places to stay and things to do on the island.  Whatsapp came in handy and we texted and shared photos throughout the trip. 



It's happening! We are ready to board the plane at Aeroporto Internacional do Recife/Guararapes - Gilberto Freyre.  Gilberto de Mello Freyre was a Brazilian sociologist, anthropologist, historian, writer, painter, journalist and congressman, born in Recife, Northeast Brazil in 1900


Flying out of Recife, an enormous city with a busy coastline.

Circling Noronha then landing. There is a LOT of water and just a little bit of land




Landing in Noronha.  The rain didn't bother us at all.



We have landed!  We're really here!













Jim enjoying the surroundings.  

Heading out to the ocean from the port.  Spinner dolphins played along the way.

Checking out the wonders of nature.

This is one of many sand castles Jim and Diego have built over the years.  Praia Boldro

Lots of cats on Noronha and Diego loved them all. Debbie couldn't resist.

There's a super cool (legal) conservation program called Projecto Tamar (http://www.tamar.org.br/) .  They've been doing research and environmental education for years.  Here one researcher is measuring, weighing and tagging a beautiful turtle (Tartaruga)  The project has been working in Noronha since 1996 (http://www.tamar.org.br/centros_visitantes.php?cod=7)

Sunset over Praia do Boldro

The weathered rocks of Praia do Leao. It was like being on another planet!

A different view of Praia do Leao 

Baia do Golfinhos.  We headed out at 6 am to watch the spinner dolphins swim into the bay to eat and play.

The beautiful walkway (made of recycled plastic) to the Baia do Golfinhos. 

Mmm, café de manhã at Canto do Boldro

Diego at the window of the prison from the late 18th century.  
Evening at Praia Canto do Boldro.  Men fishing attracted huge marine birds at sunset. (Photo by Diego)


We all had fun finding our way around and navigating the mud

Tiny frog on the window

Morning breakfast area.  We can hear the waves of Praia Boldro
crashing on the beach.



While eating lunch, Jim had a visitor.

Home #2- Pousada Estrela de Mar. Peaceful and simple

Breakfast (café da manhã) was actually pretty elaborate, with juice (suco) from different local fruits, guayaba bread, eggs and lots of cakes.

Late afternoon at Pousada Estrela do Mar

This is what feet should look like after a good hike!

The cannon at Vila dos Remédios at the center of Noronha (constructed around 1772 by the Portuguese, with the church,  Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, serving as the town center)


Atalaia lookout. To the left is Turtle Bay where we went swimming with turtles.

Boldro from the sea.  Here we saw spinner dolphins playing in their pods, in their own home

Sunset at Boldro

We rented a buggy for a few days to get to really know the island.  Diego had a blast sitting in the very back.  We're ready to walk down to the Leao beach

A very old cannon overlooking Leao

Diego as Poseidon. He rules!

Diving into the natural pool at Praia Cachorro (Dog Beach)

Dos Irmaos (Two Brothers)

A perfect day at Leao

Leao panorama

A huge manta ray was swimming alone at 7 am.  We spotted him/her as we waited for the dolphins to arrive at Dolphin Bay

And there is his/her underbelly

Diego and Debbie at the fort

Praia Sancho.  Our boat pulled up to this wondrous beach and off we went swimming and snorkeling

A two-tailed lizard... super cool!

Last moments in Noronha, taking it all in, savoring the full experience

It's impossible to fully capture the beauty of Noronha and the ways in which that beauty infused every sense that we have.  The silence of the evenings and the sounds of the waves endlessly crashing on the beach, the humid heat and damp coolness that would envelope us, smells of flowers and trees and mud and sea and beauty that left us breathless.. these are just some of our memories that brought us together, closer than ever.  




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