Back to the mainland: Olinda (Pernambuco) and Oficina Brennand,Where July 9-11

After a very restful and magical stay at Fernando de Noronha, we flew back to the mainland to Recife, picked up a car and drove to Olinda, an historic city just north of Recife.  The downtown area is a World Heritage site and its known for its Carnaval, which takes place in the streets and is open to all.

The drive from Recife to Olinda should take about 45 minutes IF you are not in rush hour. Unfortunately, we went straight into 5 pm traffic and arrived in Olinda about two hours later.  Thanks to Jim, who navigated small, curving and intersecting streets with no visible names and whose names changed every few blocks.  A stick shift was not ideal in these conditions but Jim never complained and also never stalled the car.  The GPS on his phone worked, sort of, and we followed the "arrow" into a maze of early evening celebrations and people coming home from work from every direction. Motorcyclists were the most amazing of all.  Sometimes two or three people found a way to fit on one bike and they wove their way in and out of cars at top speed, beeping all along the way. Changing lanes was harrowing since, of course, we didn't want to knock anyone off the road!

When we pulled into the small and peaceful streets of Olinda, we celebrated with a tiny cheer and found our next pousada, Pousada de São Pedro, recommended to us by DaGuia from Canto do Boldro. We checked in, dropped our bags and headed down the street to a quaint and peaceful Creperia.  And we got... crepes!  The next days were filled with walking the streets, taking in views, capturing graffiti on the walls and doors of the town and eating good food!

Graffiti or Grafite (gra-fee-chee).  In March 2009, the Brazilian government passed law 706/07 which decriminalizes street art. In an amendment to a federal law that punishes the defacing of urban buildings or monuments, street art was made legal if done with the consent of the owners. In Brazil, there is a distinction made between tagging, known as pichação, and grafite, a street art style distinctive to Brazil.

The creperia where we ate several times (and left our journal!)

The windows of the pousada... can you see Teddy at the window?

Carnaval company on the second floor!

Grafite on a tree trunk

At the end of a long day, a pool in a garden with Margarita the turtle wandering around is perfect.

Diego through lace

Recife in the distance

Diego and the marmosets that come for breakfast

FANTASTIC GRAFFITI (GRAFITE) IN OLINDA

OFICINA BRENNAND
Oficina Brennand
Lonely Planet + the internet is such a great combination.  With these resources, our curiosity was piqued by the description of a place called, Oficina (workshop) Brennand.  We had no idea what was in store and we can't believe that until now we knew nothing of Brennand's work. 

Francisco de Paula Coimbra de Almeida Brennand was born June 11, 1927, in Recife, capital of Pernambuco.  (Is that a cool name or what??  He continues to work and is incredibly prolific.) 


In November 1971, the artist began to rebuild the Old pottery works of São João da Várzea, founded by his father in 1917. He started a massive project of ceramic sculptures that populate the internal and external spaces of the grounds.  
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Arriving there is quite an experience.  We wove our way (Jim, driving fearlessly with a stick shift the whole time) through the traffic from Olinda into Recife until we came to a fairly unmarked turn-off. Down winding streets, past cheap motels, until we hit a beautifully peaceful tree- and bamboo-lined road.  We drove through the forest for a few miles (or kilometers), past cattle and horses, until the space opened up on to massive grounds with a huge brick warehouse-looking structure.  Ceramic sculptures were everywhere, and this was just the beginning.  We spent several hours and could have spent days in this wondrous place.  We are all true followers of Brennand now. His unique style is immediately recognizable and moving.  

Where the magic happens.  Ceramics of all kinds are fired here.

This entire wall is covered with intricately-designed tiles

The Brennand symbol

 Endless rooms of ceramics

Oficina Brennand